Stewart
Dillon in China: Notes two
14
October 2002
To
save my account from melting down I have taken the
most FAQ from the e-mails and posted the replies
here for general consumption.
These
answers are not exhaustive or even comprehensive.
Each answer could be an article in its own right.
As always if you require further clarification
just drop me a line.
1.Where
do you live in China?
I live in a city called Harbin. Harbin or Haerbin
as it is sometimes spelt (the reasons for this
would also necessitate a separate article) is
the provincial capital of Heilongjiang, a province
in the north east of China.
China borders many countries (including Afghanistan
which must have lead many Chinese to wonder if
the US would "accidentally" bomb them - again)
but it is my luck to live in the province that
borders with Russia. Not only do we have Russian
weather (it snows in October) but countless expatriate
Russians wandering around like characters in a
Martin Cruz Smith novel. Still, if it were not
for the Russians, the upstanding men of Harbin
would have to rely totally on Chinese prostitutes
for gratification.
2. What is your city like?
In some strange way Harbin reminds me a lot of
the grimly industrial cities of north England,
except it is a lot bigger and a lot, lot colder.
In another strange way (if you are going to use
cliches than at least be consistent) it also has
a very rural feeling to it.
It
is a uncomfortable mixture of workers, peasants
and office fodder. Chinese cities are more porous
than their English counterparts and the division
between urban and rural is blurred, especially
with Harbin.
Only
in a city like Harbin will you see buses, taxis,
tricycles and donkey-driven carts using the same
roads. The city could never be called beautiful,
unless your idea of beauty is endless concrete
blocks but thanks to the Russian influence there
are some buildings of redeeming beauty.
Harbin
is attempting to fight its brain drain (everybody
wants to go down to the costal cities with their
strong, technology driven economies) but dirty,
polluted, overcrowded and bitterly cold in winter
it has some work to do to persuade people to stay.
3.
What are the people like?
Harbin is not Beijing or Shanghai, Shenzhen or
any of China's other metropolitan citied. Despite
the Russian influence Harbin is very much a provincial
city with an insular and parochial mentality.
Physically the people are bigger than their compatriots
in the south. The men are taller and broader,
the women are taller and more buxom (which is
no bad thing if you are tired of willowy females).
There
is a tendency to corpulence though, aggravated
by a heavy diet of meat and beer and a disinclination
to regular exercise. The Harbinese are (in)famous
for their short tempers and willingness to use
violence.
This
includes the women, a mystifying phenomenon given
that it is rare for Chinese women to drink alcohol.
They will argue, scream and rake each other's
faces at the drop of a hat, be it a bus a supermarket
or the street.
If
you're a shy, sensitive, retiring type then Harbin
is probably not the best place for you to visit.
One final point to make. When describing the habits
of others one must be aware of cultural relativity.
One can't expect people to behave as you would
behave. I accept this so I make no comment about
Harbinese people spitting (including spitting
on the floors of buses, restaurants and shops),
or dropping litter everywhere or smoking in public
places.
What
I really don't understand, even with cultural
relativity, is the attitude of Harbinese people
towards urinating in public. If a man's bladder
were bursting then I might accept the need to
urinate but even a drunkard in England would make
an effort to find a secluded place. Not so here.
In full view, almost proudly, penis in one hand,
ubiquitous cigarette in the other, you can see
any time of day and night men urinating in full
view.
The public toilets here are bad I know but it
can be a distasteful sight and is unhygienic to
boot. I can only guess it is some deep atavistic
urge to mark their territory.
4. Are there many foreigners in your city?
One
of Harbin's few advantages over the cosmopolitan
cities is that the Chinese spoken here is considered
to be the standard, unsullied by dialects or accents.
Accordingly many foreigners come here to study
Chinese. Due to its location there a lot of Russian
and Korean students. There are also a number of
English and Americans studying or teaching English
(or both). There are even some Japanese here even
though most Harbinese hate the Japanese (even
more than they hate the Russians) and would probably
like to save on winter fuel by using them instead.
If you are heard speaking English you are likely
to be taken for an American. This is not a bad
thing though if George W. Bush carries on the
way he has been, expect more Americans to learn
the Chinese for "No, I am English."
5.
What are you doing in China?
As stated before I am a teacher, a teacher of
English as a foreign language, to be exact. Although
Harbin is not most language teachers' first choice
there are a large number of language schools here,
all eager to meet the ever increasing demand for
English language learning.
This might cause a problem for less unscrupulous
business owners, the lack of qualified teachers
but the proprietors of these schools are nothing
if not inventive. If you can find a qualified
teacher give them a job.
If
you can't, find a native speaker and give them
a job. If you can't find even a native speaker
then find a foreigner with white skin and a reasonable
grasp of English and give them a job.
Though
I hate to take the bread out of someone else's
mouth this is the main reason English teaching
abroad is held in such low esteem. Teaching is
not as easy as one might think.
6. Are you able to speak Chinese?
No.
I have picked up a few phrases but have never
settled down to learn it systematically. I used
to explain my failure to learn on laziness and
poor time management but I have now come to realise
that my reasons for not learning are subtler and
darker than I admit. These may (or may not) be
explored in a future article.
7.
Do you miss England?
Only
when I am having a particularly bad day in Harbin.
The sort of day when it is cold with heavy rain
and the ground has been transformed into a quagmire.
The
sort of day when people grab your arm begging
for money or trying to sell you something. The
sort of day when the legions of unemployed workers,
who sit on the edge of the kerb all day, look
at you as if you were in a zoo.
If
I am not having a bad day then I don't miss England.
Harbin is not London or NY but look at what happens
to world-famous cities - they get bombed.
I wonder if Osama Bin Laden has heard of Harbin?
In the depths of winter the temperature here can
drop to minus 40. People have to wear so many
clothes you can only see their eyes..
Put
him in a Russian overcoat with a sack of sunflower
seed to sell on the pavement and nobody would
give him a second glance. After all he used to
live in freezing conditions in a mountain cave
- he'd feel right at home here.
8. Do you make a lot of money?
It's a relative question. Compared to England
my salary is laughably meagre. Working in a private
school I can earn about 400 pounds a month. Working
in a university (as I have done) you can earn
even less, about 300 pounds.
What
makes it bearable is what I call the "hidden"
salary. I have an apartment in an upmarket district
of Harbin paid for by my school. They also pay
all the bills including the telephone. I even
get free meals in the school. I also don't pay
tax. It should also be mentioned that 400 pounds
is way above the monthly average in Harbin. I
may complain about many things but I never complain
about my wages. Having seen real poverty here
I know how lucky I am.
9. Do you have a girlfriend?
I have a fiance, which is a sort of evolved girlfriend.
She represents the younger educated generation
of Harbin who see the West as a positive force
but don't feel the need to abandon their Chinese
roots.
She speaks very good English despite having lived
in Harbin all her life and despite a poor childhood
which involved eating tree bark for nutrition.
She works for a construction company, a job she
professes to hate. I find this surprising since
she does very little work and gets a sumptuous
free lunch, no small thing in Harbin.
Her main interests are her dog (named after the
dog in "Silence of the lambs"), studying English
and spending money, preferably mine. If ever there
were an Olympic event for spending money on clothes
she would be bringing the gold back to Harbin.
Unfortunately
she would only get silver in the complaining event
- her mother would have already taken the gold.
(I am only joking of course; she is really the
most wonderful person in the world and I am not
fit to receive the dust from her shoes as she
uses my head for a foot stool)
(Copyright
© Stewart Dillon 14.10.02.) Stewart is a journalist
and english teacher living in China.
You can contact him at stupaud@yahoo.com
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