Stewart
Dillon in China: Notes three
15
December 2002
The
bleak mid-winter in Harbin is bleaker than most
other places, make no mistake about that. During
December the average temperature is about minus
20 and in January it can drop as low as minus 30.
It is de rigueur to wear at least two pairs of trousers
and a coat designed for arctic temperatures. The
style of coat worn depends on social position, e.g.
the Russian military overcoat/greatcoat is mainly
favoured by workers and unemployed whilst the genuine
fur coat is favoured by women with rich husbands/boyfriends
(or both).
To
go out without a hat or gloves is to endure extreme
physical discomfort/pain but it is a common sight
to see men (and to a lesser extent women) walking
around without hats, clutching their ears because
they do not wish to disturb their hairstyles.
They deserve full marks for style but zero for
stupidity.
Still
winter is one of my favourite times in Harbin
simply because I can emerge from the Christmas
period relatively unscathed and unscarred. Even
in Harbin, home of the human donkey (those people
who are working to push back the definition of
hardship), I cannot escape completely but at least,
at the end, I do not end up wishing I could volunteer
for one of Shirley Jackson's lottery numbers.
It
is not the English transformation of Christmas
into a month-long exercise in greed, excess and
overindulgence that repels me so much; there is
nothing you can teach the Chinese about materialism.
I agree with George Monbiot that Christmas is
bad for one's mental health but even if Christmas
were banned I would still have to live through
the Chinese Spring Festival which in its own way
is just as bad as Christmas.
What
makes Christmas intolerable for me is its lack
of originality. Christians (if there are any left
in England) may not like to accept it but "Christ's
Mass" has all the originality of a Shaun
Hutson novel.
I
do not intend to go into the origins of Christmas
in depth but one word should suffice for this
article: Romans. Do any research into Roman religious
beliefs and festivals and you can't help but see
the similarities. Three things in particular catch
the eye; the cult of Mithras (a.k.a. Mithraism)
Sol Invictus and Saturnalia.
Haven't
you ever wondered why Christmas Day is on the
25th of December? You might have thought that
if God loved us so much He would have moved it
to a better time of year; maybe He was worried
it would clash with Glastonbury.
Christmas
in Harbin may be a diluted version but it is growing
ever more popular (mostly with young people) and
may one day even rival the Spring Festival if
not in cultural value then certainly monetary.
Long
suffering readers of this column (all 3 of them
or 4 if my mother's dog has finally learnt to
read) may recall that my apartment is situated
across the road from a branch of McDonald's (note
the positioning of the apostrophe please). Being
McDonald's I fully expected them to join in the
Christmas spirit and they have not disappointed
me.
Not
only do they have a beautiful Christmas tree but
lovely stars to hang upon it. These stars are
made of paper and are given to customers to write
their Christmas wishes upon. In the true spirit
of Christmas I too was given my own star by a
smiling member of staff. Fusing my rudimentary
Chinese with her (much better) English we were,
for the briefest moment of time, able to cross
the cultural chasm that is Harbin, as though we
were kindred spirits unwillingly forced to spend
eternity apart but reunited for one glorious instant.
If
only all fast food outlets could match McDonald's
in their decorations. I have never been able to
erase the memory of last Christmas when I happened
to go to a pizza place. Their principal decoration
consisted of a jolly Father Christmas crying 'ho
ho ho '. This was all fairly innocuous in a tacky
way until one saw them from the back (an unavoidable
occurrence given their profuse number and positioning).
Seen
from the back one saw not the kindly benovelent
figure beloved of children and Coca-Cola adverts
but a primeval fertility god, a priapic presence
endless crying 'oh oh oh' in an eternal pounding
peaking climax of sexual debauchery. Whilst there
is nothing wrong with fecundity figures (James
Ellroy would undoubtedly have called it "beaucoup
hung") it can put you off your deep pan Hawaiian.
Lost,
drowning and gasping in the horror of undesired
memory, I almost forgot to mention my McDonald's
Christmas wish. It was for peace, compassion and
respect for all the world's people regardless
of race or religion.
In
this spirit of international goodwill I shall
be the global village caroller (I wanted to be
the idiot but George W. Bush had already been
given the job), knocking on people's doors, disturbing
them during their favourite soaps and demanding
money for singing one or two songs - badly.
Despite
what some may perceive as an article filled with
endless cynicism I would like to wish anyone reading
this a sincere Happy Christmas.
Remember;
a friend is for life not just for Christmas. Unless
of course your friend happens to be the genius
at the Carphone Warehouse who decided it would
be a wonderful marketing idea to parody the RSPCA's
Christmas campaign. If that person is your friend
and since we are in the Christmas spirit why not
borrow another idea from those wonderfully inventive
people the Romans and throw your friend to a pack
of wild animals?
Christmas
needs new blood, a rejuvenation of its customs
and traditions and since it was lifted wholesale
from the Romans we should maintain consistency.
Who
needs three daily doses of Who wants to be a Millionaire?
when we could be watching tiresome, sanctimonious
and hypocritical public figures being executed
in barbaric ways? Who needs Celebrity Big Brother
when we could have Celebrity Decimation?
This
beautifully simple yet compelling idea takes as
its basis the Roman punishment for mutinous soldiers.
One soldier in every ten would be selected and
executed as an example to the others.
Just
imagine; ten public figure picked by a popular
vote and then, every week, one executed until
only one remained. The only problem I foresee
would be how to pick just ten - the royal family
and the British cabinet alone would exceed that
number. Maybe it's time to bring back It's a Royal
Knockout - omly this time the knockout would be
permanent.
If
that ever happened even I might be tempted to
spend Christmas in England - just don't knock
on my door while I'm glued to the box. Merry Christmas.
(Copyright © Stewart Dillon 15.12.02.)
Stewart
is a journalist and english teacher living in
China.
You
can contact him at stupaud@yahoo.com |